Your furnace won't ignite, blows cold air, or shuts off after a few seconds. You need heat, not guesswork. Our RVTI-certified technicians find the real problem so you stay warm.
You turned up the thermostat, heard the blower kick on, and waited. Cold air. Maybe you heard clicking but no ignition. Maybe it fired up for a few seconds then quit. Either way, no heat.
November in Alabama can drop into the 30s at night. A dead furnace turns your RV into a walk-in cooler, and layering blankets only gets you so far. You need a furnace working, not a shop that can't seem to guess the right problem or has to order parts and wait a week. By then it's warm again in Alabama.
That's why we train our techs to find the root cause, and we keep enough parts in stock to get you going the same day, usually.
RV furnaces use propane for heat and 12V battery power for the blower, ignitor, and controls. When any part of that system fails, you lose heat. These are the problems we see most often.
The blower runs but you never hear the ignitor click, or it clicks but propane never lights. Could be a dirty sail switch, failed ignitor, blocked exhaust vent, or a control board that's not sending the signal. We test each component in sequence to find the failure.
Some cold air at startup is normal while the blower primes the system. But if it never warms up, the burner isn't firing. We check ignition, propane delivery, and battery voltage to find out why.
The furnace ignites, runs for a few seconds, then the flame goes out. This usually points to low propane pressure, a weak regulator, a dirty flame sensor, or insufficient battery voltage. After three failed attempts, the furnace locks out.
Nothing happens when you turn up the thermostat. No blower, no click, no sound at all. Check your battery voltage first, as furnaces need at least 10.5 volts to operate. Could also be a blown fuse, bad thermostat wiring, or a failed control board.
The furnace kicks on and off repeatedly without maintaining temperature. Could be a drafty return air area, a thermostat issue, or the high-limit switch tripping because of restricted airflow. We find the root cause so it holds a consistent cycle.
Soot around the exterior exhaust vent or unusual odors when the furnace runs are warning signs. Could mean a blocked exhaust, combustion problems, or a cracked heat exchanger. Don't ignore these, they can be safety issues.
Understanding the basics helps you understand why we diagnose the way we do. Your RV furnace isn't like a home furnace. It's a forced-air propane system that depends on your battery, your propane supply, and proper airflow all working together.
When you turn up the thermostat, the blower motor starts first. Before the ignition board allows a light sequence, it verifies two things: that the fan is running and that the high-limit (over-temperature) switch is not in fault. Older furnaces use a sail switch to confirm airflow. Newer forced-air LP furnaces (FALPF) use a hall effect sensor instead, but the purpose is the same. Once the board confirms fan operation and a clear high-limit, it opens the gas valve and fires the ignitor. The flame sensor then confirms the burner is lit. If any step in that sequence fails, the board shuts down the furnace to protect you.
That sequence is why "just replacing the ignitor" doesn't always fix the problem. Here's a good example: replacing an ignitor does solve the issue a lot of the time. But many times the real fix is a connection issue. Unplugging and reconnecting the old ignitor would have done the same thing as installing a new one. Same goes for control boards. A shop swaps in a new board, it works, and they charge you for the part. But the old board was fine, it just needed its connector reseated. That's the difference between guessing and diagnosing. We test the full sequence to find where it actually breaks down before we replace anything.
Different manufacturers use different control boards, ignition systems, and safety switches. We know the differences and diagnose accordingly. Here are some of the brands we work on most often:
Don't see your brand listed? We service all RV furnace brands. New manufacturers are entering the market regularly, and our technicians stay current. Contact us with your make and model and we'll let you know how we can help.
Most RV furnace problems are repairable. The furnace itself is a simpler system than your AC, and individual components can usually be replaced without swapping the whole unit. Here's where the line falls:
Sail switch: clogged with dust or pet hair, cleaned or replaced easily.
Ignitor: failed or corroded, straightforward swap.
Control board: common failure point, replaceable with a model-matched board.
Gas valve: not opening properly, can be replaced individually.
Blower motor: worn out or noisy, replaced without touching the burner system.
Cracked or corroded heat exchanger: this is a safety issue, not just a performance problem.
Multiple failed components on an old unit where repair costs add up.
Furnace model is discontinued and replacement parts are no longer available.
We'll tell you what we find and let you decide. No pressure, no upselling.
Our founder is the 2-time RVIA Top Tech and co-creator of the RVTI certification program. That expertise is behind every diagnosis.
Thermostat signal, battery voltage, blower speed, sail switch, gas valve, ignitor, flame sensor. We test the whole chain, not just the obvious part.
We stock sail switches, ignitors, control boards, and gas valves for Suburban, Atwood, and other popular brands. Many furnace repairs are completed the same visit.
Cold air at the start and end of a heating cycle is normal. The blower runs for up to a minute before ignition and again after the burner shuts off to purge the system. If the furnace never produces heat, the burner isn't igniting. Common causes include a dirty or failed sail switch, a bad ignitor, low battery voltage, blocked exhaust vents, or a failed control board.
RV furnaces require propane, 12V DC power, and proper airflow to ignite. If any one of those is missing, the furnace won't fire. Start by checking that your propane is on and your battery voltage is above 10.5 volts. Blocked exhaust vents from insect nests or debris are another common cause. If the blower runs but you never hear the ignitor click, the sail switch may be dirty or failed. After three failed ignition attempts, most furnaces lock out and need a thermostat reset.
Costs depend on the problem. A sail switch or ignitor replacement is on the lower end. A control board replacement costs more. We diagnose the actual cause first so you only pay for what's needed. Call us at (256) 571-9399 for a diagnosis.
We service all RV furnace brands, not just the ones listed on our site. Suburban, Atwood (now Dometic), Dometic, and Hydro Flame are the most common, but new manufacturers are entering the market and our RVTI-certified technicians stay current. If you have a furnace, we can work on it.
Most furnace problems are repairable. Sail switches, ignitors, control boards, gas valves, and blower motors can all be replaced individually. Full furnace replacement usually only makes sense when the heat exchanger has cracked or corroded through, which is a safety issue. We'll tell you what we find and give you honest options.
This usually means the furnace is igniting but then losing flame. Common causes include low propane pressure, a weak regulator, a dirty flame sensor, or insufficient battery voltage. At higher elevations, some furnaces struggle to maintain flame. If it ignites and shuts off repeatedly, it will eventually lock out. We test propane pressure, battery voltage, and all ignition components to find the cause.
Our shop is in Guntersville, Alabama. RV owners drive to us from across North Alabama for furnace repair they can trust.
Serving Guntersville, Albertville, Boaz, Arab, Scottsboro, Fort Payne, Cullman, Attalla, Gadsden, Oneonta, Decatur, Huntsville, Union Grove, Morgan City, Blountsville, Langston, South Sauty, Lacey's Spring, New Hope, Owens Cross Roads, Hampton Cove, Madison, and Athens.
Call us today. We'll diagnose the problem, explain your options, and get your RV furnace producing heat again.